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  #1   IP: 212.159.18.90
Old 23-04-2015, 08:15 AM
xpuser8334 xpuser8334 is offline
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Post Terex HR12 - This is the history of mine... what about yours?

I thought I would share my thoughts and experiences with the Schaeff-Terex HR12.

Ruben PM'd me last night, but because I'm a newbie and need another 3 or 4 PMS, I can't reply.. so I thought I would share this..

Hope you don't mind - even if it is common sense or mundane to some of you - but may not be to others.

Tracks - Lost two links in one track this week - new track ordered and on it's way... but having a JCB130 on site... it's not urgent.

Hydraulics - Lost total drive two weeks ago - the hydraulic pump is bolted to the flywheel adapter plate, but on the flywheel, there is a plastic gear where the pump slides into.
the pump has a metal gear with rounded teeth, but over time, these teeth go razor sharp and then begin to bite the plastic gear.
eventually the plastic gear gives up, and you end up with NO hydraulics - no drive, no dip, bucket or slew - nothing.
Both of the parts cost 111.00, but as you can imagine, the initial diagnosis was the pump had gone - and it hadn't.
The cheapest parts supplier was based in Dorrington Shropshire.

Buckets / Pins - Loads of play - to the point I was sick of buying shims for it. in the end, I bought 100 stainless steel washers for about 30.00. the washers are 3mm thick, and if used in conjunction with some thin original shims, they do the job perfectly. - I know wome of yo wuld probably say take them out and get proper shims... but I've used a "shim-washer-shim" packing technique to help fill the gaps properly - they are large gaps, and shimmed perfectly.

Quick (Manual Hitch) - (other than a bit sloppy and needs some kind of shim... somehow) This is a bit of a pain at times, mainly because you can't lubricate it with a grease gun... well... you can but you have to drop the bucket off. take out the Allen socket caps (one on each side)
pull out the springs.
clean all of it with paraffin or white spirit.
force the same into the holes and keep working the unlock / lock mechanism until it moves smoothly... then put the grease gun end into the threaded hole and pump away, while working the mechanism again... eventually, the grease works its way to the locking pins and the actual rotating bit where the lever is used for unlocking / locking the bucket..
reinsert the springs after a good clean, and screw in the Allen socket headed caps, but only until they are flush with the main body - or until they begin to lock on the mechanism (over do it, and you rick not getting the bucket off).

Sump / Oil-pan - Some idiot (a previous owner I suspect) had stripped the threads on the drain plug - and the thread-size is stupidly huge with a relief valve of some type on it. - A quick coupling for machine draining at a guess ???.
I ended up having to source another sump bolt (bung), having it drilled on a lathe and threaded to accept a standard size drain bolt.
the original (now machined bolt) was brazed into the sump allowing me to use a 19m spanner to drain the oil...

Fuel System - The pump packet up. the breather pipe for the tank split. the fuel gauge works when it is in the mood....

Ignition Switch - I do not have a clue why, but even with a new switch fitted and brand new key... you have to rock the key for the engine to start.
It's a standard JCB3CX type ignition switch... maybe I need to buy a genuine JCB one to help me with this... but it's no biggy...

Starter Motor - due to an idiotic Nephew who though he knew how to fix things, I have had four starter motors on the machine - mainly because he fitted them, and didn't even fit the top bolt, causing the pinion to wear off.

I do have the spare parts manual for this and a few other Terex HR Machines...
I don't have much spare time to assist with digging part number out for people I'm afraid.... if you ask, It may be a day / week or month before I can get back to you.... I will get back to you, but time isn't on my side to do it within 24hrs I'm afraid.
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  #2   IP: 46.208.120.157
Old 23-04-2015, 08:09 PM
oldchips oldchips is offline
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Default Re: Terex HR12 - This is the history of mine... what about yours?

The more knowledge the merrier.

Presumably the pin play is side to side since you are fitting washers? Have you tried Belville washers?

Still draining oil out of the sump plug! I discovered these vacuum suckers years ago and have never undone a sump plug since. The oil must be really hot, then let it cool until you can put your hand on the sump, then it sucks out no problem. No doubt there is a little bit more left in the sump then using the plug, but so what?
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  #3   IP: 212.159.18.90
Old 29-04-2015, 06:15 PM
xpuser8334 xpuser8334 is offline
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Default Re: Terex HR12 - This is the history of mine... what about yours?

Yes.. side to side movement.
fitted the stainless steel washers and MY GOD... what a difference...
Actually tried a vacuum suction pump, but it must have been a cheapo one and I threw it away because it let me down doing an oil change on a boat!!!

Now I have to change a rubber track - 230x96x33 - anyone got a part worn fully serviceable one hanging around at all??
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  #4   IP: 46.33.141.223
Old 29-04-2015, 08:24 PM
doobin doobin is offline
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Default Re: Terex HR12 - This is the history of mine... what about yours?

Quote:
Originally Posted by xpuser8334 View Post
I thought I would share my thoughts and experiences with the Schaeff-Terex HR12.

Ruben PM'd me last night, but because I'm a newbie and need another 3 or 4 PMS, I can't reply.. so I thought I would share this..

Hope you don't mind - even if it is common sense or mundane to some of you - but may not be to others.

Tracks - Lost two links in one track this week - new track ordered and on it's way... but having a JCB130 on site... it's not urgent.

Hydraulics - Lost total drive two weeks ago - the hydraulic pump is bolted to the flywheel adapter plate, but on the flywheel, there is a plastic gear where the pump slides into.
the pump has a metal gear with rounded teeth, but over time, these teeth go razor sharp and then begin to bite the plastic gear.
eventually the plastic gear gives up, and you end up with NO hydraulics - no drive, no dip, bucket or slew - nothing.
Both of the parts cost 111.00, but as you can imagine, the initial diagnosis was the pump had gone - and it hadn't.
The cheapest parts supplier was based in Dorrington Shropshire.

Yes, I replaced the plastic bit as a service item as I saw whilst fixing the starter motor that it was on it's way out.

Buckets / Pins - Loads of play - to the point I was sick of buying shims for it. in the end, I bought 100 stainless steel washers for about 30.00. the washers are 3mm thick, and if used in conjunction with some thin original shims, they do the job perfectly. - I know wome of yo wuld probably say take them out and get proper shims... but I've used a "shim-washer-shim" packing technique to help fill the gaps properly - they are large gaps, and shimmed perfectly.

Done the same. The main problem is the stupid unbushed pinholes which wear as soon as the pins move a bit (which they will regardless of being bolted) Got my washers from thesitebox.com, hihgly recommended for all nust, bolts and screws.

Quick (Manual Hitch) - (other than a bit sloppy and needs some kind of shim... somehow) This is a bit of a pain at times, mainly because you can't lubricate it with a grease gun... well... you can but you have to drop the bucket off. take out the Allen socket caps (one on each side)
pull out the springs.
clean all of it with paraffin or white spirit.
force the same into the holes and keep working the unlock / lock mechanism until it moves smoothly... then put the grease gun end into the threaded hole and pump away, while working the mechanism again... eventually, the grease works its way to the locking pins and the actual rotating bit where the lever is used for unlocking / locking the bucket..
reinsert the springs after a good clean, and screw in the Allen socket headed caps, but only until they are flush with the main body - or until they begin to lock on the mechanism (over do it, and you rick not getting the bucket off).

Gassed the lot out after it got stuck (stupid, overcomplicated, easy to wear out ratchet system!) and used a pin like a semi quick hitch. Solved it permanently by buying a tilt hitch instead Terex grading bucket is great for ditching, and completely useless for anything else. Couple the lack of a lip of any sort with the incredibly short blade and you can forget any ideas about cleaning up against the blade.

Sump / Oil-pan - Some idiot (a previous owner I suspect) had stripped the threads on the drain plug - and the thread-size is stupidly huge with a relief valve of some type on it. - A quick coupling for machine draining at a guess ???.
I ended up having to source another sump bolt (bung), having it drilled on a lathe and threaded to accept a standard size drain bolt.
the original (now machined bolt) was brazed into the sump allowing me to use a 19m spanner to drain the oil...

Fuel System - The pump packet up. the breather pipe for the tank split. the fuel gauge works when it is in the mood....

Please don't tell me you paid Terex's asking price of 889+VAT for the pump? I fitted a 30 eBay jobby inline, has worked faultlessly for 1500 hours. I've fitted new fuel lines right back to the tank, one for a split and the other as preventative maintenance. My temperature gauge works when it's in the mood...

Ignition Switch - I do not have a clue why, but even with a new switch fitted and brand new key... you have to rock the key for the engine to start.
It's a standard JCB3CX type ignition switch... maybe I need to buy a genuine JCB one to help me with this... but it's no biggy...

Interesting. I have a new switch ready to fit as the old one is so worn that when you turn it it goes slightly past the point of sending power to the solenoid- is this what you meant by rocking it? If not, then having to rock the key points to a sticky starter solenoid.

Starter Motor - due to an idiotic Nephew who though he knew how to fix things, I have had four starter motors on the machine - mainly because he fitted them, and didn't even fit the top bolt, causing the pinion to wear off.

Have had no end of bother with starters. The original failed in the most awkward place possible, it was a half hour tracked dumper ride with the tools and gas bottle. Fitted a new pattern part from HPS, it works but turns over much slower. The old one seemed 'geared'. Sourced another one from kohl.de in Germany. Lasted about thirty hours before the solenoid failed. Complete wank. Can't fault kohl as they refunded money but a complete waste of time. So back on the HPS one. Fucked if I'm paying well over 1k for a genuine Mitsubishi starter.

I do have the spare parts manual for this and a few other Terex HR Machines...
I don't have much spare time to assist with digging part number out for people I'm afraid.... if you ask, It may be a day / week or month before I can get back to you.... I will get back to you, but time isn't on my side to do it within 24hrs I'm afraid.
Our list of problems is uncannily similar. Terex are an absolute joke on parts prices. Bunch of tossers. Usual Terex MO- buy a decent brand, treble the price of spares and don't innovate any further. They are exceptionally strong machines, well built but if they go wrong you'll pay through the nose. They're not like Fendt in that they hold their money that well either. That said I love mine, it's made me three times what I paid for it and it's still worth the same. But I reckon a Kubota would have done the same.

Other problems- slew motor is still a bit slow but she'll do for now. Running on bio oil, Tom at ExcaV8 specced Fuches Plantohyd for it.

Useful things that might help others out:

Hydraulic filter- Donaldson P173486- much cheaper that a hydraulic filter from Terex.

Oil filter- one for a Pug 106 diesel is about perfect for this and many other small engines. Think it's an OC198. I always have a couple in the drawer. About 3.50 each.

Hydraulic pump- 'Heldex -Barnes, GMBH, Hof, Germany. W9A3-08-08-5.5-R / 180106902016949'

Pump to engine plastic coupler- 'Kupplungstechnik 6mbH D4440 Rhaine / BoWex 48B FLE-PA fuer Mitsubushi K2B-K3-K4B/D/E-KE75'

The engine is a Mitubishi L3E-W262KL. Commonly used in boats and other small plant. Horrendous for parts prices also.

Last edited by doobin; 29-04-2015 at 08:27 PM.
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  #5   IP: 212.159.18.90
Old 29-04-2015, 10:12 PM
xpuser8334 xpuser8334 is offline
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Default Re: Terex HR12 - This is the history of mine... what about yours?

Well...
The plastic bit on the drive is one thing, but I have noticed the teeth on the metal pump drive become so worn, they are like razors... I have noticed this on pumps pictured on eBay etc.

Didn't pay Terex prices for the fuel pump... I did the same as you and bought a 35.00 pump of eBay... new pipes and filter were fitted at the same time.

The starter switch... you put the key in and turn it to start.... then holding the key as you would normally.. rock it side to side and it will kick in and work...
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Old 30-04-2015, 06:19 AM
doobin doobin is offline
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Default Re: Terex HR12 - This is the history of mine... what about yours?

Quote:
Originally Posted by xpuser8334 View Post
Well...
The plastic bit on the drive is one thing, but I have noticed the teeth on the metal pump drive become so worn, they are like razors... I have noticed this on pumps pictured on eBay etc.

Didn't pay Terex prices for the fuel pump... I did the same as you and bought a 35.00 pump of eBay... new pipes and filter were fitted at the same time.

The starter switch... you put the key in and turn it to start.... then holding the key as you would normally.. rock it side to side and it will kick in and work...
My teeth weren't bad. I assumed the plastic was the wear part. Will look closer next time it's off though!

Where did your starters come from, and at what cost? Do you find they turn over much slower than the original?

As for the switch, if the solenoid isn't clicking then it can only be a dodgy switch really.
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Old 13-07-2015, 03:45 PM
xpuser8334 xpuser8334 is offline
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Unhappy Re: Terex HR12 - This is the history of mine... what about yours?

And now another problem...
Runs perfectly for about 20mins.
then.....
The engine struggles to keep running while carrying out the simplest of tasks.
for example..
if I crowd the bucket... the engine nearly stalls.
if I try to move the machine (forward on tracks) - it will move 5inches before almost dying on it's ass.
I have to leave the machine to cool down completely before moving it to a place for working on.
Hydraulic oil levels are good (and reasonably fresh) - within 25hrs,
Good Eng. oil level (replaced 25hrs ago)
Coolant replaced a few hundred hours ago, so I replaced it this week.
Fuel filter clean and clear.
no fuel leaks.
but I'm getting ready for ripping the fuel tank off and giving it a good swill out with something to make sure its clean... I'm, getting a slimy residue in the top separator bowl.
for the last few fuel top ups, I've been using BP's road diesel. at the usual 120.9 per litre. :-(

suggestions will be greatly appreciated!

one thing I missed to mention.
the main starter to alternator wire burned out a while ago, due to bad engine mounts and a rocking action... being an old auto leccy, I professionally rewired the engine bay, re-mounted the engine on new bushes and all seems well....
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Old 13-07-2015, 04:21 PM
doobin doobin is offline
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Default Re: Terex HR12 - This is the history of mine... what about yours?

Quote:
Originally Posted by xpuser8334 View Post
And now another problem...
Runs perfectly for about 20mins.
then.....
The engine struggles to keep running while carrying out the simplest of tasks.
for example..
if I crowd the bucket... the engine nearly stalls.
if I try to move the machine (forward on tracks) - it will move 5inches before almost dying on it's ass.
I have to leave the machine to cool down completely before moving it to a place for working on.
Hydraulic oil levels are good (and reasonably fresh) - within 25hrs,
Good Eng. oil level (replaced 25hrs ago)
Coolant replaced a few hundred hours ago, so I replaced it this week.
Fuel filter clean and clear.
no fuel leaks.
but I'm getting ready for ripping the fuel tank off and giving it a good swill out with something to make sure its clean... I'm, getting a slimy residue in the top separator bowl.
for the last few fuel top ups, I've been using BP's road diesel. at the usual 120.9 per litre. :-(

suggestions will be greatly appreciated!

one thing I missed to mention.
the main starter to alternator wire burned out a while ago, due to bad engine mounts and a rocking action... being an old auto leccy, I professionally rewired the engine bay, re-mounted the engine on new bushes and all seems well....
My money's on fuel, but you know your way around the fuel system on these as well as me by the sound of it.

I'd suspect a hose softening as the engine warms up, then collapsing under vacumm.
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Old 13-07-2015, 07:32 PM
left hooker left hooker is offline
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Default Re: Terex HR12 - This is the history of mine... what about yours?

Hoses collapsing or loads of sludge from diesel bug as pump fuel has a lot of bio mixed in needs using up fast or bug sets in if not used regularly
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Old 13-07-2015, 09:07 PM
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V8Druid V8Druid is offline
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Default Re: Terex HR12 - This is the history of mine... what about yours?

tank breather vent blocked and so preventing fuel exiting tank due to vacuum - whip the filler off the next time it's about to die and see if it takes a breath of air and picks up - or leave the filler loose and see if it cures it?
Sorry if it's a case of grannies and egg sucking

Other wise as said - swollen/degrading hose internals collapsing and sealing off fuel supply

Or water logged fuel filter
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